For all model, cut the cable ties holding the head in place. For Ultimaker 3 series printers, also remove the tape from the front of the printhead.
Remove the tape and bubble wrap from heated bed. You can turn the Z-screw by hand to move the bed up to get the bubble wrap out.
Pull the two silver colored clips on the front of the bed outwards, and slide the glass bed into place. Turn the silver colored clips again to secure the bed in place.
When plugging your power adapter into the printer, be sure to pull the sliding mechanism back, push it into the port on the printer, and let go to lock it in place. If you give a tug on it, it should be firm; it should only disconnect if you pull back on the sliding mechanism again to release it.
Flip the switch to power your machine on.
The printer will walk you through the initial set-up wizard. For all machines, this includes loading the material For Ultimaker 2 series printers, this includes leveling the bed. For Ultimaker 3 series printers, you will be asked to insert your Print Core and perform the lifting switch calibration. If you turn the printer off at any point during the initial set up, it will restart with the initial set up again when you power it back on. If you have any difficulty leveling the bed via the calibration card method on the set-up wizard, you can find alternate leveling instructions on our site here.
After leveling the bed (or performing the lifting switch calibration), the printhead will begin to heat to load filament. When you load filament, make sure your filament is moving with the curvature of the tube, rather than uncoiling against it. The less curvature the filament is having to fight, the easier time the printer will have extruding.
To load filament, you may have to exert a fair amount of pressure on the filament as you push it in from beneath the feeder at the back of the machine. It's also helpful to manually straighten out the last inch or so by hand so that you know it will feed straight. It may seem like an extremely tight fit, but it's necessary in order for the printer to be able to grip the filament between the bearing and knurled sleeve in the feeder. Teethmarks on the filament as it passes through the feeder and into the tube are perfectly normal. If you find a large concave spot ground out--or a lot of debris present--at the feeder, that is not normal. Below is a picture of normal teeth marks on the filament.
Once the filament is caught between the knurled sleeve and the lever, and seems to be moving forward, hit continue on the button on the front of the printer. It will fast forward most of the way up the tube, and then begin to inch forward more slowly. If you hear it begin to click when the filament reaches the white Teflon piece, apply a little pressure on the back of the filament. The edge of the filament can sometimes get caught on the edge of the Teflon piece, but it will flow smoothly once you get it past there. When the filament reaches the nozzle and begins to come out, the feeder will start to click--this is normal during the loading process. Hit continue. You may see filament coming out of the nozzle that is not the color you have inserted; this is the filament we used when testing your printer to make sure it meets the highest quality standards.
Select which material you are using from the menu, and get ready to print.